Alice Waters: It’s hard to say exactly what it was because it was a big picture of the culture of France. It wasn’t just about the food. It was about the concerts we went to. It was about the beauty of the parks, of the cathedrals, of the cafés — the life that the people were living.  It seemed so civilized to me; it seemed so real, somehow. And I just wanted to live like the French. And when I came back home, I tried to find the food, of course. But I lit the candles on my table when I sat down for dinner.  I set the table in a very particular way. I bought the napkins, and I folded them. I even picked flowers in the neighborhood to put on the table because I wanted it to be beautiful.